The Genesis Scrub is the first and most basic manual scrub the line offers, and I love it! This formula of honey and pumice is loaded with wound healing plant extracts and nourishing oils that are sure to reduce the appearance of scars old and new. Safe to be used on all skin types and on the face and body. This scrub from the EDIT Collection will have you smooth from head to toe…

Why It’s Good:

Exfoliation is necessary for skin cell turnover and increasing the skin’s rate of absorption, this nourishing formula is meant to effectively remove dead skin cells, hydrate freshly exfoliated skin and improve your melanated glow. Did I mention the Vitamin E and A oils help to lessen the appearance of discoloration? Yup, this scrub has got it covered!

How To Use:

Scoop out a generous amount in your hands and apply the scrub directly on your skin. Gently rub in smooth circular motions on your face and body, focusing on dry patches, and discoloration. Thoroughly rinse or shower like you normally would. Follow up with my serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

INGREDIENTS

(full list below)

Water (Aqua):

A natural hydrator, water is the best option for keeping skin moist and supple. But just because water is listed as the first ingredient here doesn’t mean half the contents are water, I used it in our scrub to properly mix together the following ingredients for smooth application.

Pumice Base:

Not a common ingredient that you would find in skincare products but trust me on this, the pumice used in this scrub is perfect for gently removing dead skin cells and product buildup. These pumice grains are not so aggressive as to cause micro-tears in the skin but are effective at clearing away the dead skin and debris. Seriously, that’s the whole point of using a scrub right?

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

I said a mouthful, didn’t I? This is just a fancy way to say that it’s a thickening agent, emulsifier and texture enhancer. In this scrub, I need this crosspolymer to act as an emulsifier, which keeps the oil and water molecules dispersed (mixed) throughout the product. That way you will get an even amount of water and oil, along with the scrub’s other contents whenever you use the product. And don’t worry, this ingredient won’t cause irritations and upset your skin.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil:

Did you know that grapeseed oil is the byproduct of winemaking (ah, the wonders of wine)? After the grapes are pressed the seeds leftover are extracted for their oil. The main benefit we get from the oil of the seeds are their omega fatty acids and antioxidants such as vitamin C and E. I choose this oil for my scrub because it protects against free radical damage, helps manage acne due to the linoleic acid content and vitamin E helps to reduce the appearance of acne scars.

Honey:

Nature’s natural moisturizer and a damn good one too! I love honey for its multi-use benefits for skin and for some reason it just doesn’t get enough play when it comes to melanated skincare products. The use of honey in this scrub helps to reduce the appearance of scars, discoloration and keep the skin smooth and firm.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Organic Gotu Kola)

An important ingredient for wound healing, gotu kola stimulates collagen and reduces inflammatory activity. Acne scars are no match for this plant extract which has other benefits rooted in soothing upset skin and skin with a compromised barrier.

Equisetum Arvense Extract (Horsetail)

No, this is extract is not from an actual horse nor was it derived from any animal by-product. This is a plant-based extract meant to aid in wound healing and scar reduction. I’ve added this ingredient to the scrub to help boost the effectiveness of the other scar and discoloration reducing agents is to ensure maximum results.

Geranium Maculatum Extract (Wild Geranium)

Keeping skin toned and youthful is easy enough to do with the wild geranium extract. Its nature’s astringent and the answer to stimulating cell turnover and calming inflammation. This common flower extract is a must have anti-aging ingredient and can be found in almost any line. I put it in our scrub to bolster the effectiveness of the pumice grains.

Taraxacum Officinale Extract (Organic Dandelion)

Loaded with antioxidants to protect against free radical damage, and helps to reduce inflammation and irritation, dandelion extract keeps the skin calm after exfoliation. Since manual exfoliation can be a bit aggressive to the skin, depending on the amount of pressure during the application, I need something that will be kind to the skin after trauma.

Sodium Hydroxide

While it holds no direct skin benefit for the user, sodium hydroxide holds the pH level of a product stable and doubles as a buffer and cleansing agent. The active ingredients here need to remain stable and I don’t want the scrub to become too acidic or basic. Too much of this ingredient can cause skin sensitivities but when used in low doses is completely safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin and Phenoxyethanol (Preservative)

I know, I know, preservatives have gotten a lot of bad press in the recent years, but anytime you have active ingredients, especially natural ingredients, we must do everything possible to keep them from spoiling quickly. Without preservatives, the shelf life of our products is only a few weeks. Ethylhexylglycerin is derived from glycerin and is a weak preservative. Here it’s used in it in conjunction with Phenoxyethanol to increase its effectiveness in preserving the scrub ingredients. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative for soaps and perfumes but I used it to limit bacterial growth. No one wants to scoop their favorite scrub to find active bacteria multiplying!

So here’s the scoop on the NWÄR Skin GENESIS Scrub. I am a huge exfoliation fan and I am dedicated to sharing my favorite scrub ingredients with my melanated kinfolk!

Have you recently used the GENESIS Scrub? Tell me what you think in the comments below!

Looking to add this new product to your skincare routine. Buy it here!

Need a heavy-duty makeup remover that won’t leave your skin dry and dehydrated? Or maybe your current cleanser isn’t giving you that “so fresh and so clean” feeling? Don’t even worry about it friend, the PRE-WASH CLEANSING OIL takes care of all of that! This step of my skincare routine ensures pores get the deep cleaning they deserve without over-drying the skin all while keeping your melanated layer hydrated. Did I mention this doubles as a primer?… Yeah, you’re welcome!

Why It’s Good:

Pre-cleansing the skin with an oil-based cleanser may sound counterproductive, especially if you have oily skin and are acne prone, but when using the right oils, you can be sure your pores are being thoroughly cleaned and properly hydrated. Oil attracts oil! During the pre-cleansing step, the oils in this formula attract your skin’s excess sebum and actively pulls out impurities in your pores. That includes makeup, skincare products, pollutants and grime from your hands (I’m talking to you face pickers)! My formula is infused with tea tree oil, which is antibacterial and antifungal, to help lessen the severity of current breakouts and prevent future ones.

How To Use:

Pour a generous amount out onto a cotton pad or ball. Smooth onto face and neck area in gentle circular motions to remove any makeup or product residue prior to cleansing. Rinse with cool water and repeat until the residue is gone. Product may settle, so shake before each use.

 

 

Ingredients:

(full list below)

Distilled Water:

If we are talking about cleansing ingredients, then water would be the most obvious first choice. Seriously, how can you clean anything without water? Though it’s the first ingredient in our cleansing formula that doesn’t mean you bought a bottle of expensive watered down ingredients meant to clean your skin and help remove makeup, quite the opposite friend. The water here is mixed with a blend of oils to act as a solvent in which it dissolves the following ingredients onto the skin. Distilled just means it’s free from toxins, pollutants, and microbes, so no I didn’t just throw in regular tap water.

Glycerin:

It’s all about hydration baby, and hydration is the key to healthy skin and a spectacular glow! And even though that comes naturally to us melanated folk, we still gotta make sure we are maintaining it. And for maintaining, glycerin is my second best friend (after water, duh)! This ingredient debuts at number 2 in my formula because of it’s humectant capabilities. This substance attracts moisture from the air and draws it into the pores, keeping the skin super hydrated. Hence the non-drying feel after cleansing.

Safflower Oil:

Packed with Vitamin E, which is a potent antioxidant and a great defense of free radical damage, safflower oil is known to prevent the signs of premature aging and sun damage. Though these issues aren’t high on the list of problems for my melanated kinfolk, this oil is extremely effective for speeding the wound healing process and calming skin irritations from free radical damage. Safflower oil combined with the other ingredients in this formula creates a winning cleansing combination for all skin types.

Sweet Almond Oil:

This oil just doesn’t get enough play when it comes to melanated skincare, as it is highly effective in relieving eczema, dry patches and can lighten the dark circles under the eye. The use of sweet almond oil here acts as a booster to the safflower oil in the effort ensure pores are thoroughly cleaned and help to prevent any free radical damage and acne flare-ups. Sweet almond oil is high in Vitamin E and A and is light enough to be absorbed into the skin without clogging the pores. One of the most underused oils for our skin issues but in THE PREWASH it gets all the love.

Tea Tree Oil:

And now for the pièce de résistance (that’s French for saving the best for last), the tea tree oil! This ingredient is one of my favorites because it puts in overtime for those with acne prone skin. This oil is antibacterial and antifungal, so it actively combats bacteria causing p-acne known as Propionibacterium acne. This is to ensure the bacteria isn’t active and spreading to the nearby pores. As much as I love tea tree oil and all its glory, I was careful not to add too much as it can cause desensitization, irritation and skin sensitivity in large amounts.

 

So here’s the scoop on the NWÄR Skin PREWASH Cleansing Oil. It’s my own creation and formula, simple yet effective, and I am super proud of the results.

Have you recently used the PREWASH Cleansing Oil? Tell me what you think in the comments below!

Looking to add this new product to your skincare routine. Buy it here!

 

Whew, it’s been a while since I last posted but fear not, there has been some great things in the works and I am excited share. During my blog hiatus, I re-branded the ONYX STUDIOS, INC. product line and I have shifted my focus to the care and treatment of melanated skin. Since the bulk of my clientele for facials are black, brown and beige in complexion, I wanted to cater specifically to their skin issues and conditions. Enter, my new skincare line, NWÄR Skin!

The new line was developed as a no frills, no fuss skincare system that is broken down into four steps:

Step 1: CLEANSE

Step 2: EXFOLIATE

Step 3: HYDRATE

Step 4: PROTECT

 

This line is formulated to target the specific needs of my melanated kinfolk such as, hyperpigmentation, scarring, acne, eczema, uneven texture, anti-aging and sun protection. For each product, I conducted extensive research and worked closely with the manufacturing companies who produced them. Each ingredient was carefully selected to target the specific issue and treat the condition. I also provide an in-depth explanation (here on my blog) of how these ingredients work and what it means for your skin.

Having an easy to use and regimented process, cuts down on all the noise from competing brands and products, and allows my customers to hone in on their specific issues to deliver results.

Though NWÄR Skin was developed and formulated to treat issues and conditions common to people of color, that doesn’t mean that lighter skinned folks won’t benefit from the new line. If you are of Caucasian descent and suffer from any of the issues NWÄR Skin aims to treat, you’ll be happy to know that your skin is in good hands.

Check out the NWÄR Skin product line here!

 

A few weeks ago, a client of mine came in for a detoxifying facial with complaints of sporadic breakouts on the forehead and dryness on the cheeks. During the consultation, she admitted that she had been using bar soap (and not the good stuff) to wash her face followed by a moisturizer and BB cream for dry skin. I cleansed her skin and took a quick look at her trouble areas under the magnifying lamp. My assessment was brief; her pores were clogged, forehead riddled with blackheads and cheeks that were so severely dehydrated that fine lines were noticeable without the “lifting test” (I’ll explain what this is later). I knew immediately what the problem was and the diagnosis was easy.

DIAGNOSIS:

My client’s skin was severely dehydrated and malnourished. She thought since her cheeks were so “dry” that it needed more moisture, which in fact they did; but alas, oil is not moisture, it’s a lubricant.

 

So what’s the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin? Allow me to shed a little light.

DRY SKIN:

Dry skin lacks a healthy production of sebum (oil). The sebum your body produces has only one purpose and that is to keep your hair and skin lubricated. Now, everyone is different. Though the human body is capable of producing sebum, some people’s oil glands are a little more active than others. How much your body creates can depend heavily on genetics, diet, lifestyle, skincare products, the environment and a host of other things.

 

As illustrated in my comparison graph I use the texture of leather for both dryness and dehydration.

On the dry side, the leather is wilted, flaky, rough, scaly and uneven much like dry skin. When your body isn’t producing as much sebum as it should to keep your hair and skin lubricated, the skin will become dry, cracked and begin to peel. This is why people with drier skin tend to see the signs of aging much more quickly than their oily skin counterparts.

SOLUTION:

If your cause of dry skin stems from your genetic code, there isn’t much you can do to “cure” this condition. You can however use prevention and proactive measures in your home care routine:

1. EXFOLIATE: I know it seems counter-intuitive but exfoliating more often helps to increase the cell turnover rate of your skin. Since your skin lacks oil you will have to be diligent in stimulating the skin and removing cell buildup. But don’t over do it. Try to exfoliate your skin 1 to 2 times a week with a mild scrub.

2. LAYER: Use the layering method of applying a water based moisturizer and seal it with an oil based sunscreen or tint. Always apply your water based skincare products first then followed by your oil based product. This will help seal in moisture and ensure your skin is getting the nutrients that it needs.

3. LIFESTYLE: Do you live in an area where cold temperatures and low humidity dominate your weather forecast (a slight nod to the windy city)? Extreme temperatures, hot or cold can strip the moisture from your skin. I am not suggesting you move to a more skin friendly climate, but you can avoid introducing extreme temperatures to your skin. Avoid long steamy hot baths, keep your skin protected in the frigid weather and apply a dry skin moisturizer daily.

4. DIET: How is your diet? Are you eating foods and drinking liquids that rob your skin of its much needed water content (I am talking to all those devoted happy hour drinkers and fast food eaters)? Alcohol can play a major role in sucking the life (I mean that literally) out of your skin. Try cutting back on your weekly or in some cases, daily alcohol consumption. Swap it for fruit infused water or with plain ole H2O.

5. PROFESSIONAL HELP: If the above suggestions aren’t helping alleviate your dry skin issues, it is time to seek professional help. Booking a facial with your Esthetician will be helpful in shedding more light on your condition and offer a more effective solution. A microdermabrasion service in combination with a chemical peel can do wonders for drier skin types. Follow up the treatments with intense hydration therapy for visible, same day results.

DEHYDRATED SKIN:

In contrast to dry skin, dehydrated skin lacks water. Overall your body is made of 60% water and your skin is about 64% of the same. When you don’t drink or eat enough water (yes that is a thing), the result can visibly affect the skin. So while the sebum your body produces keeps your skin lubricated, water keeps you skin hydrated and alive (literally). If the average human can’t go more than 3 days without water (while its on record that some have gone 8-10 days without water, which I don’t recommend) before dying, think of how crucial it is for water to be a part of your skin’s diet.

 

Reverting back to my comparison graph, the leather on the right is dehydrated, tough, dull and well, leathery. It shows thousands of tiny fine lines ready to graduate to full blown crevices.

THE SOLUTION:

Fortunately, dehydration is not linked to any particular genetic code, so it’s completely curable. If you suffer from dehydrated skin, try the following:

1. DIET: This goes without saying, but the first thing to do would be to invest in a reusable water bottle. Keeping a water bottle handy acts as a constant reminder to drink more often throughout the day. The goal is to drink 9 cups of water each day. I know that’s tough, and no one wants to make frequent round trips to the restroom, especially while at work (talk about a productivity killer). You can try eating your water. Yup, you read that right. EAT YOUR WATER! Consuming more fruits throughout the day can help you reach your desired goal a lot easier and without the constant trips to the porcelain throne. Fruits with the highest water content are best. Here’s a quick list of fruits with the highest water content: watermelon (92%), strawberries (92%), grapefruit (91%), cantaloupe (90%). Bonus if you can add these fruits to your water for a little extra flavor.

2. PROFESSIONAL HELP: If you’ve introduced water more frequently into your diet and your skin is still dehydrated, it may be time to make an appointment with your Esthetician. Intense efforts of infusing water molecules into the skin can go a long way in alleviating visible dehydration.

SELF ASSESSMENT:

So how can you tell if you are dry or dehydrated? Here is a mini test you can do at home.

You’ll need a magnifying glass, a mirror and good lightening. While standing in front of the mirror,  place the magnifying glass up to your cheeks. Take your index finger or thumb and lift your skin up from the bottom of your cheek. If you spot some very fine lines in the magnifying glass that is a good indication that your skin is dehydrated and not getting enough water.

 

While still using the magnifying glass stretch the skin with your index finger and thumb and look for distressed areas the show signs of flakiness, cracks and uneven textures. These clues will indicate you may have have dry skin.

OR

You can always book a hydrating facial with me for a professional look. Click here for an in depth analysis! 

PRODUCTS:

Don’t have a skincare regimen for your dry or dehydrated skin? The ONYX STUDIOS, INC. BREATHE Skincare Collection is the perfect duo to help re-calibrate moisture retention in even the driest skin. 

Did you do the self assessment? Let me know if your skin is dry or dehydrated. Leave a comment below!